An attempt to leave, but still on Nuku Hiva!  Sunday, 16/07/2023

We left just after noon on Wednesday, but… renewed autopilot trouble. It was fairly rough out on the open sea but all was going well until, just before 16:00, the autopilot failed. So, once again, I was forced to abort a trip and head back in. This time it was only 20 miles, but it was a fairly rough trip, more or less into both wind and waves. It also meant coming in at night, something which I (and most others) always try to avoid. 

Happily, I know the layout of the bay and even where boats are likely to be found. Fortunate, because it was very dark (nowhere near full moon). It was stressful – my night vision isn’t great (something that certainly deteriorates with age), and not helped by having to look at lit screens to navigate. Some boats show no light at night, while those that do usually just show a mooring light at the top of the mast, which is fine when you’re a distance away, but up close is pretty useless. So I proceeded slowly and very carefully, staring into the gloom, and managed to avoid hitting anything. Once I reached a clear space suitable to drop the anchor I had further trouble – my new large anchor has a very large shackle on it, too large to fit into the metal receptacle on the bow, and it had got stuck going down. So while floating around I was trying to dislodge it. Eventually succeeded using a large screwdriver as a lever… All-in-all, it was a trying few hours. My first priority, at 10pm, was to eat. Then shower. And then: beer! Only then did everything feel alright!

Regarding the autopilot: the repair done in Costa Rica cannot be blamed. It worked: I sailed 4,000 nautical miles in 28 days, with the autopilot permanently at work and had no problems. I’m grateful for that. The basic problem is that the stress on this piece of equipment is heavy. It really needs to be replaced, ideally by an expert – someone who regularly installs these things and can ensure that all is right. The problem is that such people are not to be found outside major yachting centres. I’m not sure if I can get a basic repair here – I’m still waiting on the French guy who does general work on boats here, and who’s been pretty busy. Although it’s getting quieter, there are still boats arriving, and most have some sort of problem after sailing 4,000 miles. 

I’ve been doing my best to be philosophical – with some success. Two years ago I would have been going out of my mind with frustration. Now the most I feel is mild irritation, and even that doesn’t last long, a few hours maybe. So I think I’m much better equipped these days to handle this sort of setback.

One way or another I will find some sort of solution. All I absolutely need is a fix to the autopilot that will last a hundred hours or so, getting me the 540 miles to Fakarava. From there it’s no more than 250 miles to Tahiti, which if I had to I could hand steer in four days, benefiting from the favourable current. In Tahiti it might be possible to get a new autopilot fitted, although I’m not sure about that. What would really be best would be a fix that would take me before the end of the year as far as Australia or New Zealand, both places where there will be an abundance of qualified professionals and a good chance of quality work being done. (I think I have dreams of a tough Aussie or Kiwi looking me straight in the eyes and saying “It’s all good mate!”).

On the plus side, the weather here has been great, every day sunny and relatively calm. I’m in a beautiful place and, although I’d like to be moving on, it’s not the end of the world to be here a bit longer.

I’ve been amusing myself the last two days by reading an interesting book. There are two famous westerners associated with the Marquesas: the French artist Paul Gauguin, who lived and worked on Hiva Oa, and the American writer Herman Melville, best known for Moby Dick, who jumped ship and lived here on Nuku Hiva for several months in 1842 amongst the natives. His account of his stay, Typee, was his first book and made his reputation. Of course in some ways it is dated. Not least in his use of terms such as “these happy savages” – language which is rather far from politically correct in the modern world. But Melville had a far greater imagination and sensitivity to others than was usual in those days, and he found the local way of life quite exceptional in many ways. He makes very clear comparisons between the so-called civilised world of his day and the happy society of people he found, who lived in conditions of natural abundance so that food was always plentiful; who lived in large family groups in simply built but spotlessly clean houses that the community would pitch in and build; who bathed in streams at least once and often twice a day; where he did not see any strife between people, whether adults or children; and where everybody seemed to be treated as equals, man or woman. So it’s an interesting read, basically a portrait of an extraordinary little world that has gone. Particularly interesting when you are actually here.

Perhaps some of the qualities that Melville saw help to explain why Nuku Hiva is such a lovely place today. Crime is virtually non-existent. There is absolutely no littering (none at all). I have not witnessed any person raising their voice in anger. Of course life has changed a lot – not least the fact that most adults seem to own a vehicle and drive. Roughly three-quarters of the vehicles are pickup trucks, obviously favoured because they are four-wheel drive. The most common is the Toyota Hilux, but all makes are here. Virtually all are double cab varieties: good for transporting people, but able to deal with the dirt side roads that are standard.

So here I am, temporarily marooned in an island paradise! With luck I’ll be on my way soon and able to update you with a picture of something completely different.