Leaving the Virgin Islands…. 07/05/2022
Tomorrow we will clear out and sail west, heading along the north coast of Puerto Rico to the east coast of the Dominican Republic. A fair distance, about 200 nautical miles, which will probably take about 36 hours. Will leave in the afternoon, aiming to get in early on Tuesday morning.
I would have been happy to stop in Puerto Rico, but it’s a US territory and has very onerous entry requirements. I would have to make an appointment at a US embassy and appear in person in order to get the necessary clearance. Plus pay $150 for the privilege. Not worth the hassle for a brief visit. It’s all basically related to US efforts to counter drug smuggling from the Caribbean.
The British Virgin Islands have been great. From my last post, I went north along the coast of Virgin Gorda into North Sound, where I anchored for two nights off Prickly Pear Island. Very scenic – although there was no path I scrambled up the steep, rocky and cactus-strewn hillside of the island, from where there were excellent views, including northwards over Necker Island, which is owned by the entrepreneur Richard Branson. He has clearly tried to be environmentally conscious – the buildings are low rise and blend into the terrain, and there are three small wind turbines and a decent bank of solar panels. Enough to power the island, and probably enough to run a small desalination plant for water.
We sailed from there down along the north coast of Tortola to Cane Garden Bay. A beautiful spot, close to the highest point in the islands, Sage Mountain, which is about 520 metres (1,700 ft) high. About a 7km walk to the summit from the bay, which turned out to be the steepest road imaginable! For about 45 minutes from the bay it was a relentless uphill walk, really hard going. Needless to say, I didn’t come across any other walkers! But it then became less steep and heading towards the summit I was in national park, which was forest – a great relief! In fact it was pleasantly cool up there, thanks to the altitude, shade and good breeze. Needless to say, the views were great! The forest was lovely, and plus I met a very engaging young woman walking her dog and we chatted for ages.
I did have trouble in Cane Garden Bay, and that was the anchor chain getting completely twisted around a rock on the bottom. I dived down and could see what the problem was, but it was five metres deep and I just couldn’t take enough air to stay down for several seconds – by the time I got down I had to shoot to the surface to gasp for breath! I figured that I needed someone who could dive with an air tank, so I went ashore and spoke to a couple of local middle-aged guys sitting in a bar. They sent me along the road to ask for someone; he wasn’t around but I was referred to a young fisherman. He was about to take his boat out and said he’d stop by. He laughed when I said I couldn’t stay down long enough – he promptly dived over board and 20 seconds later the chain was free. That’s what you get when someone is used to free diving!
From there came across to Jost Van Dyke, the smallest of the four main islands. Anchored in White Bay, which has two long white sand beaches and clear turquoise water, a really stunning spot. Had to be on the outside of the reef because it is very shallow inside, good only for catamarans with their shallow four foot draft. The anchor chain again got caught around a rock, but given I was only in four metres of water, this time I was convinced I could do it! So when ready to sail, I drew the chain in as far as I could, and armed with a weighted dive belt and goggles I went overboard ready to release it. As it turned out I needn’t have bothered – the chain pulled itself up and then turned the rock over. Released and with the chain now slack, the boat started to drift away, so I swam fast back to the stern and got onboard. I already had the engine running and in neutral, so it was very easy to engage. Although I hadn’t really done anything, nevertheless I felt proud of myself – I’d set it all up perfectly! Just one of the little hassles that can’t be avoided.
Sailed a couple of miles along the coast and anchored in Garner Bay, a small and quiet place. One restaurant there, where I ate dinner – very friendly! Had a long chat with the young waiter – the usual story: how come you are alone? He was delighted with my story and insisted on shaking hands vigorously.
Moved this morning back one mile to Great Harbour, where there’s a fuel dock and also customs for outward clearance tomorrow. The guys at the fuel dock, one young, one elderly, were very friendly – again wanting to know what I was up to. They had lots of questions about the other Caribbean islands, as well as technical questions related to sailing alone. The older guy seems to have been a fisherman and the younger certainly knows boats. Spent about 45 minutes chatting, as well as topping up with fuel and some water. I said I’d tried to anchor in Great Harbour yesterday but couldn’t find a space among the mooring balls and about 20 catamarans tied up to them. Any advice? The older guy pointed to a particular spot – go in there, close to the beach, you’ll be fine with your 7 foot draft… So here I am, at anchor with perfectly clear water around, and only 250 metres from Customs… Next stop: Cap Cana Marina, just south of Punta Cana, Dominican Republic….