On to Montserrat!   14/04/2022

Checked in to Montserrat this morning! After the surprisingly easy process in the French islands, this was bureaucratic. First, despite having had a Covid PCR test 2 days ago, I had to have an Antigen test here, and two people from the health authority had to come to the port to administer it. I was asked to return to my boat and stand by on Channel 16 – they would radio me when the health people arrived in about half an hour. This they did, and after seeing Health I then had to see 2 different people in Customs & Immigration, and then a third at Port Security! 

But one happy thing: they were all very friendly indeed. This friendliness started immediately: I dinghied the 100 metres to the main dock and two fishermen unloading a small boat insisted on tying me up. I said to them “I suppose I don’t need to lock the dinghy to the jetty?” and they laughed, saying “No-one will steal it here!”.

I then got my Antigen test and entertained the health people with a description of my voyage, which they were delighted to hear, thanking me for coming and being “so interesting”. Curiously, both of them were from (British) Guyana. I asked if they were on contract and the woman said yes, she’s on contract and she’s been here 40 years! The customs people were similarly friendly, everybody smiling and saying welcome. So initial impressions were certainly very positive. It feels funny being back in the English-speaking world. And using East Caribbean dollars again – which are used in most of the English islands (Grenada, Antigua, St Lucia etc.).

We left Le Saints on Monday 11th, after spending a wonderful week there. I still think that the island of Terre d’en Haut is the most beautiful place I’ve been so far in the Caribbean. Shot across to the Guadeloupe mainland and spent 2 nights in Marina Sud Ancrage, just south of the capital Basse Terre (which is nothing to write home about!). This was an opportunity to stock up, including water, as well as getting a PCR test for my onward travel.

Sailed to Montserrat yesterday, Wednesday 13th. It was a long passage, 69 nautical miles, but I thought we could make it in daylight as winds would be very favourable (an easterly wind while heading in a north-northwesterly direction). This proved so, as we averaged a very fast 6.5 knots. The wind was strong, amplified by the islands, and we were sailing most of the time with one reef in the mainsail and only a quarter of the foresail out. Even so, at times we were doing 8 knots, absolutely flying. Arrived in Montserrat at 18:00, 25 minutes ahead of sunset. This even gave me time to dive overboard and check the anchor while it was still light enough to see. 

We are in the “main port” of Little Bay. And on arrival were the only yacht here! The place is very quiet. There is a small concrete jetty and a couple of buildings, and then a black sand beach with a couple café/bars. A small cargo ship came in this morning and offloaded two containers. I suspect that this is a weekly delivery. Montserrat is little, about 10 miles by seven. But in practice it’s actually a lot smaller than that: more than half of the island is a no-go zone, the result of a shattering volcanic eruption in 1995. The Soufriere Hills volcano, which dominates the southern part of the island, had been dormant for centuries, but then unexpectedly exploded, wiping out the capital, Plymouth, and destroying pretty much everything in the south of the island. As a result, 90% of the then population of 11,000 left Montserrat, mostly to Britain (the island remains a British Overseas Territory – and is unlikely to become independent given its small population and the £25m Britain provides for its operating budget). The population has gradually recovered to around 5,000 now.

The northern part of the island was unaffected, being protected by the mountains in the middle. So life here goes on as normal, with Little Bay gradually being developed as the new capital, taking over from Brades which has been the temporary one.

The volcano has since erupted again, the last time in 2010. It continues to smoke – a strong smell of sulphur was noticeable as we passed. There is a maritime exclusion zone of about 2 miles from the coast, but from the edge of this you certainly get a good view of large tracts of land covered in lava, as well as abandoned houses and other buildings. Coming in by sea is a great way to see things. The only way to travel to Montserrat otherwise is by plane from Antigua, which is about 25 miles away.

Went for a walk to a supermarket that was surprisingly well stocked. On my return another yacht had arrived. I stopped en route to Manuka and spoke with them – Danes who had also sailed from Guadeloupe, but clearly had travelled overnight. They didn’t seem very well informed, and the prospect of having antigen tests for a family of four was putting them off staying. So they’re confined to their boat overnight and will sail away in the morning – to Antigua, which means a pretty tough trip against wind and waves. Either tacking against the wind, which will add hours to the trip, or motoring – either way, slow going. Not a great direction to travel – if you were leaving Guadeloupe you’d do best to sail north to Antigua, and then west-southwest to Montserrat, making the best of the prevailing wind and waves.

In the last hour I swam the 150 metres from the boat to the beach. Very clear water and very soft black sand on the beach. It’s a great setting, with the bay enclosed by steep, high hills. And then sitting on the deck in the last of the afternoon sun, the uninhabited island of Redonda clearly visible about 15 miles off and, beyond that, the faint outlines of Nevis…