The best and the worst!  Tuesday, 23/09/2025

I’ve been rather busy, settling back into my house and getting all sorts of things sorted out. This even included a new oven… and I uninstalled the old one, which was hard wired into the electrical system, and installed the new one. 

I’ve been meaning to provide a summary of the places I visited – trying to answer the difficult questions such as “Which place did you like best?”. I think it’s helpful to attack the question under different headings. No place has it all, but some places really stand out for particular things. 

Most likeable country: Colombia

A large and incredibly varied country, from the sweltering Caribbean coast city of Cartagena to the perpetual spring of Bogota, at 2,600 metres the third highest capital city in the world. A cheap cost of living, friendly and kind people, a troubled history which seems finally to have been resolved, and wonderful art and literature. Colombia is a fascinating country. A very liberal entry policy too – if you want to stay more than three months, you just go online and request another three months, pay a small charge, and that’s it! 

Runner up: New Zealand

Very different, an absolutely first world country that is well managed and populated by likeable, easygoing people, set in a wonderful natural landscape. Mountains, forests, beaches – New Zealand has it all. Plus it is easy to get into the outdoors, and it is all superbly managed by the conservation authorities. On top of that, New Zealand is also totally free of nasty creatures – there are no poisonous snakes, spiders or scorpions, and no crocodiles! (Unlike Australia, where the authorities also do a good job, but where the nature is replete with creatures that, given a chance, will kill you). 

Best country to visit: Namibia

Stunning landscapes – from genuine desert to lush greenery (I was there in rainy season). A brilliant country to travel in – you need a vehicle. Ideally a four wheel drive one, which makes things easier on some rough roads, and allows you to take some routes that would be difficult or impossible in a two wheel drive car. The amazing thing is that there are only three million people living there, in a very large area. This means that you can drive long distances without seeing a single person – something very rare in our overcrowded world. (South Africa is almost 50% larger, but has 20 times the population). In addition, Namibia does not have a problem with serious crime. The locals are friendly and helpful. I had always wanted to visit and it did not disappoint: in fact it exceeded expectations.

Honourable mention: Costa Rica

Although touristy, Costa Rica has emphasised its natural environment, which is what people come to see. As a result, the tourists seemed to be a lot better behaved than is typical – genuinely interested in what they were seeing and behaving respectfully. Its nature is staggering, from the rocky coastline to cloud-swept mountain forest. Being at the meeting point of north and South America, it has plants and animals from both. A great country. 

Best island: Martinique

Martinique in the Caribbean wins out for its great beaches and natural forest along the sea. Its French twist brings excellent food and wine – a thoroughly enjoyable place to visit. 

Runner up: Nuku Hiva, Marquesas

One of the most isolated spots in the world, Nuku Hiva’s mountains and lush forests are inspiring. Certainly one of the most beautiful islands in the world. The biggest problem is getting there – it’s halfway across the Pacific Ocean.

Best region: the Caribbean

If one region was to be chosen, it would be the Caribbean. A large number of very different islands, most with decent infrastructure that makes it easy to get around (and should you wish to fly, there are generally good connections to North America and to Europe). Over on the eastern side, the Lesser Antilles, which includes the Windward and Leeward Islands, is a great sailing area because in many cases it’s only a day sail from one island to the next. The climate is pretty perfect – on the islands there is always a good sea breeze, so temperatures are usually pleasant – typically high twenties centigrade (roughly 80-85 Fahrenheit). 

Best food: South Africa

Excellent meat and fish, accompanied by great wine – what more could you want? South African food has become much more international in the last couple of decades. It is striking how many small restaurants are really trying to be creative, including in their decor. And all this at a price that is cheap by international standards (only 40% of what you would pay in the U.K., for example).

Friendliest people: Fiji

Although all Pacific Islanders are relaxed and friendly, Fiji wins. A bright, smiling, lovely people, you simply cannot get nicer or friendlier people anywhere.

Best beach: Barbuda

The island of Barbuda, little partner to Antigua, has the best beach I’ve seen. Pristine and almost deserted, you can walk a mile and your footsteps are the only ones. Sublime sunsets too.

Best anchorage: Raiatea, French Polynesia

Due to an offshore barrier reef, the anchorage is sheltered while being the best part of a mile away from land. Beautiful clear water and great views of the islands to the north, including Bora Bora. 

Best town or city: Cape Town, South Africa

With Table Mountain looming over the city and a gorgeous coastline, it is difficult to beat Cape Town. It’s also chockablock with good restaurants, while a short drive takes you out into the Cape winelands, arguably the most beautiful wine growing country in the world.

Honourable runner up: Darwin, Australia

The capital of tropical Australia, Darwin is hot, even in “winter” time the temperature reaches 34 (93F) in the afternoon. But it’s a lovely small city: no congestion, and according to people I spoke to from other parts of the country, the friendliest and most easygoing city in Australia. And the countryside surrounding it is wonderful, including the huge Litchfield National Park with its waterfalls and trails, just an hour and a half drive away.

And less honourable runner up: Cartagena, Colombia 

Cartagena’s walled old city is beautiful. It would be a wonderful place to spend time if it was not for the sheer volume of tourists. Too many I think. It is also extremely hot – in summer, the temperature is frequently 40 degrees (104F) or more. Certainly the hottest city I have ever visited (hotter than Singapore, which is saying something). 

Most fascinating voyage

This is not going to be sailing along some beautiful coastline, although I had many of those. Instead it’s the trip through the Panama Canal, which was done not under sail but under engine. An absolutely fascinating experience, something that I will always be pleased that I’ve done. The locks are so massive that you are absolutely dwarfed when in them, and it’s a curious feeling rising up or going down when you at the wheel of an 8-tonne vessel. Unforgettable. 

And, for balance, some not so good! These places really stood out.

Worst litter: Dominican Republic

Down the coast from the city of Barahona in the country’s west, La Cienaga beach looks stunning as you approach it: about a thousand metres long and forty metres wide. Wonderful from a distance, however as you get closer your spirits start to fall. Nowhere did I see more litter. Each square metre has several pieces. In the main, empty food and drink containers, left there by the locals who come to picnic and spend the day. Altogether, truckfulls of garbage, which has to be seen to be believed.

Worst bureaucracy: Vanuatu

The most complicated and unnecessary set of procedures, conducted on the main cargo wharf a 30-minute walk from the centre of Port Vila. Heavy charges too. In fact Vanuatu probably wins under the “biggest rip-off” category too – anything that visitors spend money on is wildly overpriced. Far from welcoming, which is a pity, because the locals are friendly and easygoing.

Worst mooring: Rarotonga, Cook Islands

Tied up stern to a concrete dock, with the bow held out by dropping your anchor, this was very uncomfortable thanks to the constant swell coming in from the open sea. The connector between my anchor and chain broke and I lost the anchor, so ended up tied alongside the dock, rubbing against huge old truck tyres which left the side of the boat black.

Filthiest harbour: Durban, South Africa

On entry to Durban, my first impression was “What’s that smell?”. The water in the bay was a yellowish brown colour and stank. Pollution, including raw sewage, pours into the bay. At low tide, when sandbanks appear in part of the bay, it particularly stinks. The most filthy harbour I encountered anywhere, by a wide margin. Which is a pity, especially since Durban is my place of birth. 

Worst storm: New Zealand to Vanuatu

Sailing from New Zealand, suddenly being hit with winds of over 50 knots. The sea went crazy. But it didn’t last very long. This was the worst encountered, which means that overall we were very fortunate.

Worst voyage: Difficult to remember! A few times I thought: This is the worst voyage yet. But after a couple of days of good weather, you forget. The one that stands out as very uncomfortable was Fiji to New Zealand. The first two attempts had to be aborted due to autopilot failure, and on the third I spent nine days beating constantly into wind and waves, the bow constantly slamming. Nothing difficult or frightening, but just damned uncomfortable and morale sapping.

Most transparent attempt to be bribed: Dominican Republic

Surprisingly, perhaps, bribery wasn’t a big issue in my travels. But when leaving the Dominican Republic, the very friendly chief of police, having made sure that the other officers were sent out, began showing me silver jewellery that he was selling, pressing it on me. I responded as though it was the most natural thing in the world: admired it all, and then said But I don’t need any, I don’t have a woman! He was rather crestfallen, but seemed unsure of how to proceed, so I seized my advantage, jollied him along and wished him a very heartfelt goodbye. He looked very sad to see me leave. (I suspect that they’d been cracking down on corruption, which explained his clever little scheme – as well as the fact that he didn’t want to turn unpleasant). Come to think of it, I’m surprised that he didn’t seize the moment and offer me a woman! Clearly he wasn’t the fastest thinker. To be a good crook, you need to be bright.

And, finally…

You get the most amazing sunsets when you are at sea. The sky sometimes takes on incredible colours, producing a spectacle that leaves you transfixed for 10 or 15 minutes. Otherworldly.