St Helena… Saturday, 28/06/2025

We arrived in St Helena at lunchtime yesterday. It was a long voyage: 16 days, rather longer than the 14 days I’d expected. For almost the whole trip, the wind was light and often very variable – and mostly less than forecast. I was surprised at how light it was. Which did make it easy, very comfortable sailing, at an average speed of only 4.3 knots. The only strong wind along the way was in the last 36 hours, when it really picked up: roughly 20 knots with gusts of over 25. I was sailing with only mainsail, with three reefs in it, and still doing over 6 knots. 

It was interesting approaching St Helena – it’s basically a massive rock sticking up in the middle of the South Atlantic Ocean. The capital, Jamestown, is on the sheltered west coast. Manuka is anchored just off, in about 11 metres of water. You cannot use a dinghy here – the dock is unsuitable for tying up – so there is a water taxi that you call by radio on Channel 12 (and for which you pay £2.50 per person for a round trip). I went ashore and visited Port Control, Immigration and Customs – all very friendly, as you’d expect on a small island with a population of about 4,400. Once I’d done that, I walked with the Immigration lady through a park into the town centre, my main destination being the phone shop to get a local SIM card. I walked into two groceries: the basics are available, but not a lot besides. Prices are high – I noticed a can of my favourite Windhoek Draught beer was £2.50 (which is about R62, a bit more than three times the price in South Africa or Namibia). This is the downside for people living on a small remote island, although accommodation and transport costs are apparently cheap. 

It feels strange being in somewhere that is very English. Jamestown is old – established in 1659 – and many of the buildings are Victorian or Georgian. It’s a pretty place, effectively built in a ravine between two high peaks. It makes me think of Gibraltar, although Gibraltar is a lot bigger and not remote.

Coming here, one is quite far west. At about sunset on Monday 23rd we crossed 0 degrees longitude – the Greenwich Meridian – and are now at 5*40 West, directly below Land’s End in Cornwall. It has gradually got warmer, but not that warm – today it was 21 degrees, pretty typical here for the time of year.

I’m going to stay for a few days and have a good look around. I have internet access, but it’s not very strong, so I can’t post any photos….