Wandering around South Africa….  Monday, 16/12/2024

I’ve had a very interesting time wandering around over the past two weeks. My two days up the coast from Durban were great – my accommodation was first class, despite being relatively cheap. It’s a lovely coastline: long sandy beaches and plenty of coastal bush. The town of Ballito has been growing rapidly: there are two large shopping malls up on the ridge overlooking the Indian Ocean, and large estates of new houses. But in the older part of town, closer to the beach, there are many attractive streets with plenty of trees and pleasant houses. By international standards, South African property is very cheap: a substantial house can be bought for a fraction of what a modest two bedroom apartment would cost in London. A veritable mansion on an acre (4,000 square metres) or more costs what a very small two bed house with a tiny garden would cost in a London suburb.

The coast going north of Ballito is developing, but is still relatively undeveloped in comparison. Generally, these areas feel safe compared with Durban, although security fences and alarm systems are still ubiquitous – after all, this is still South Africa and crime is an ever-present issue. But the atmosphere certainly feels more relaxed.

I swam in the sea and in sea pools that are refreshed at high tide by waves breaking into them. And I ate at a few great restaurants. The food on offer is very good quality and cheap by international standards, while many restaurants have great decor – eating out is a wonderful experience here. 

After a couple of days back in Durban, I set out for Johannesburg. Quite a long drive: about 580 kilometres (360 miles), but the main road is in good condition so it’s not a difficult drive. My old high school and university friend Bruce lives in a large older house in Westcliff, a prime suburb. A beautiful house in a 1.5 acre (6,000 sq metre) garden – certainly a great place to spend a few days. There was a bonus in that his sister Sheila was staying too, having sold her house nearby. We spent hours talking, recalling the days 36 years ago when I used to visit the house they both shared with their brother in Durban when we were at university. This made it a great visit: a chance to consider where all the years have gone! Bruce has done something similar to me: several years ago he gave up his job in finance and then managed to get into Goldsmiths in London to do a two year masters in fine art. Quite a change – an entirely new life.

Johannesburg has a very different climate to Durban. The most obvious difference is how dry the air is – the one time I checked, humidity up there was 25%, compared to 85% in Durban. The days were hot, up to 34 degrees, but the nights were cooler, down to 18 to 20 degrees.

I came back on Saturday. I had intended to stop halfway so that my drive would be easier, but unfortunately the main holiday season has started here and everywhere en route was fully booked. So the last hour of my journey was at night – not ideal in South Africa, but the police appeared to be patrolling the highway, making it safer. I got back without incident.

Now we are all on the rundown to Christmas. It feels strange – I’ve been so busy that I’ve not thought much about the festive season looming!